Its meat has a reddish color and has a higher fat content than yellowfin, hence a richer flavor. In Hawaii, the bigeye is the most valued, and is recognized by its plump body and larger head and eyes. There are different varieties of ahi, from the prized bigeye and yellowfin, to albacore and skipjack. “I want people to enjoy the simple crispness of the herbs and ginger.” “My twist at the end is to deconstruct the Chinese recipe, which calls for putting everything on top,” he says. The dish is served with a side of basmati rice. Meanwhile, Mavro pulls out a skillet to crisp cilantro, green onion, and ginger with a sprinkle of olive oil, and then places the combination on top of the finished fish. He sprinkles white grapeseed oil over everything, and puts it in the steamer. Next, he places some shiitake mushrooms on top. He then sprinkles a little soy sauce on top of it and places the fish on a bed of caramelized onions. To prepare opakapaka Chinese style, Mavro first scores the fish skin, but not too deep. The light-brown fish is found at depths between 180 and 600 feet and is harvested with hook-and-line gear. Also known as the Hawaiian pink snapper, opakapaka’s delicate flavor is a favorite among islanders. Hawaiian servers speak in reverent tones when informing guests that fresh opakapaka is on the menu. Most fish sold are larger than 12 pounds. Monchong has fork-shaped fins and large scales, a high oil content, and long shelf life. They are caught in deep waters, more than 900 feet. Sold at the Honolulu Fish Auction, its primary consumers are local restaurants and select U.S. This firm, moderate-flavored fish has white flesh with pink tones. “The result is an incredibly flaky, juicy, and buttery fish, with a texture different than any other," Mavro says. After that, it's dueling forks to separate the succulent meat from the bone, and even the tasty skin is eaten. He cooks it a few more minutes, but only until the flesh is still a little pink near the bone. After some time in the skillet (which prompts the paper bag to puff up but not pop), Mavro finishes it in the oven. He then folds over the paper to form a bag, adhering it with egg yolk. Next, Mavro tops the fish with shiitake mushrooms, Thai basil, ogo nage broth, and white wine. Then he uses Hawaiian sea salt and puts it on top of parchment paper. He starts by scoring the goatfish and placing it on a bed of caramelized onion. Mavro was raised in Marseilles but has lived in Hawaii for 26 years. “Goatfish is the first recipe I ever prepared in Hawaii,” says Mavro, the proprietor and culinary force behind Honolulu’s Chef Mavro French restaurant, winner of a James Beard award. Called “kumu” in Hawaii, they are bright pink and can grow to about 15 inches in length. They are fairly common in Oahu’s famous snorkeling area, Hanauma Bay. Goatfish is a prized delicacy in Hawaii, and can be caught near reefs and sand patches in depths from five to 100 meters. As the local Hawaiian chefs demonstrate, the simplest preparations can produce the fullest flavors. If you’re not fortunate enough to be in Hawaii, you can still profit from the following tried-and-true techniques for creating memorable seafood dishes using imported Hawaiian fish at your local market or other varieties. “ Hawaiians eat three times as much fish as the rest of the United States,” says Brooks Takenaka, Honolulu Fish Auction manager. Local purveyors snag a large portion of the catch, and take them to restaurants and markets on Oahu and neighboring islands. Others are processed into dressed fish and filets. From there, the fish are loaded onto overnight flights to the U.S. Up to 50 tons of fish are auctioned each day. When I walk in, the dozen or so brokers are hunched over the rows and rows of fish, bidding on each until the warehouse is empty. Not only will you shiver, you’ll stand out among the fish brokers in rubber boots, hoodies, and jackets. Just don’t make the same mistake I do-showing up in the wet, refrigerated room wearing a Tommy Bahama shirt, cargo shorts and boat shoes.
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